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Wondered why Wholecut Oxford cost more?

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Ever wonder why Wholecut  oxfords  cost more than other models of the oxford family? You might think to yourself that it is odd, assuming that because it is one piece, which when using logical deduction would/should involve less work. But the contrary is actually true. It involves more work and I will explain why below. You see, the first stage of quality is when you go to cut the hide and how you cut that hide. That is the basis for upper  leather quality  and really what separates the novices from the experts. The higher in shoe price you go, the better that  leather  is cut (in theory).  You are paying for that attention to detail, that fine eye and hand for cutting around the flaws while at the same time maximizing the use of the hide. This very idea, in my mind, is a form of  art , to be quite honest. It really is what separates the greats from the so-so’s. When making a wholecut shoe, you are cutting one large piece of the hide. Even when cu...
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What you should look out for in a shoe

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  Many regular people not engulfed in the online shoe world will not necessarily know what to look for when they go to a department store and want to try and find a ‘good’ shoe –Not that department stores have them but that is another story–  I have tried to explain time and time again what to look for, like small construction/aesthetic details that show quality or attention to detail, etc. but the reality is most people will miss these things or easily get fooled by a fake stitch or other superficial detail intended to only trick the eye.  Or more commonly by some bullshitting salesman there just to gain his commission. And again, I can say that as I was that salesman who sometimes said stupid crap just to make a sale. Long before I knew any better. So I have been thinking about what makes a shoe undeniably good. Something that maybe you cannot see but you can feel. And of course, the answer is fit. Now, this is not to be confused with fitting you well (personally) but ‘...
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Your shoe is too big

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  Generally speaking, there are two types of heel slip: 1. The shoes are simply too big and your heel falls right out of them and, 2. The shoes fit but the heel counter is stiff, the new leather is slippery, both causing a bit of movement on your heels but you are not really falling out of the shoes.  The question is how to tell between the two, as sometimes the line can be a fine one? On top of that, sometimes you simply have a super narrow heel and most shoes give you some sort of movement in the heel region no matter what you do. One would think this is quite trivial but you would not imagine how many people I have fit that put on a pair of oxfords, claiming heel slip and after telling them to tighten the laces, the shoes fit just fine. So, knowing that, it would appear sometimes we need an extra opinion on heel slip, to understand which is acceptable and which is not.  Ideally, you would have none, but in a world of different  feet , different lasts, and differen...
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